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1966 Briggs & Stratton Tune- Up instructional video (part 2)
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Instructions on how to replace the points & condenser in a pre-1982 B&S engine.
Duration : 0:7:38
Opposed 2 crankshaft engine construction- Briggs & Stratton
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Construction details of my Opposed type engine with 2 pistons and crankshafts based on Briggs & Stratton 3-1/2 hp lawnmower engines model 92502.
This engine required some careful thinking and designing to figure out the simplest method to build it. I went thru about 6 designs on paper before I decided this layout was easiest.
Each cylinder head is 1/4″ aluminum plate, bolted to the block with countersunk head bolts. The 2 heads are then bolted to each other by a ring of bolts that hold the whole assembly together. The intake manifold using just 1 carburator got a bit interesting also. So the engine is now pretty much an overhead valve design, as the valves from one block feed the opposite cylinder, with a small passage connecting the 2 combustion chambers. I messed up in one respect, the chamber volumes are too small, so compression is in the 9 to 10:1 range, which makes starting this monster a REAL chore, especially as it is now 18 cubic inch, or like a 7 hp engine with high compression. It weighs in at about 50 lb.
Duration : 0:1:45
Part-3: 3hp Briggs and Stratton engine overhaul (for mini dirt bike)
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Part 3 of my Briggs engine overhaul. This time; exhaust removal, flywheel removal, carb dissasembly and clean.
I finally get the flywheel off, thanks to some advice from kiarra00, and then set about taking the exhaust and carb. I used a ‘oil filter remover’ and breaker bar to get the exhaust off as it was rusted on badly. Then I took the carb off and gave it a good clean to get rid of the engine oil which had been spilled into it by the delivery guy.
Next time: Carb assembly, new fuel hose, fuel tank, valve lapping???
Also SUBSCRIBE if you like Engines: tuning, fixing, rebuilding etc. and you can keep up to date with this project too.
Duration : 0:7:49
BADASS dual straight piped Bolens tractor ( Briggs & Stratton )
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The badass mean rumble of a 2002 Briggs & Stratton 17HP INTEK I/C OHV engine on a 2003 Bolens by MTD. Original motor on the tractor, with DUAL STRAIGHT PIPES coming out the back. It sounds like a Harley! This video does NOOOOOO justice whatsoever on what it really sounds like.
Duration : 0:1:43
3HP Briggs and Stratton UPDATE & valve removal tutorial
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Took the valves out and i show how to take them out. I also took the side cover off and cleaned out the grease like oil with some petrol on rag. I have to get some valve lapping compound and lap the valves so they seal well.
Duration : 0:3:25
Briggs & Stratton IC Engine Pt2 - Head Shaving and Cold Start
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Since it is a damaged motor I figured it would be worth experimenting with it, my dad suggested shaving the head down as far as I can on the lathe, and so far it worked!
if I go much lower I will have the valves hitting the head as they open!
Duration : 0:9:39
briggs and stratton engine lubrication
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saucey
Duration : 0:2:30
Cast Iron Briggs and Stratton Carb Rebuild Part 1
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First of three videos on rebuilding tips to running while tuning. Enjoy!!
Duration : 0:9:37
Emergency power provided by my Generac Generator with a 10 HP OHV Briggs & Stratton Engine 5 28 10
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Duration : 0:3:8
Antique Briggs and Stratton Engine Model L1 LI Running
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I just bought this off of eBay a couple of weeks ago. It had a good spark and a little compression so I decided to try to start it. Well it didn’t. First off, it didn’t have a gas tank. I felt pretty stupid…
Anyway, I got a gas tank for it, but then the carburetor fitting threads stripped out. They were beyond repair. I debated whether or not to tap them, but that would probably crack the pot metal. So I had to buy a new carburetor.
Once I put that on, I decided that I should take the head off to inspect the bore, head, and gasket before I tried to start it. Two of the 6 head bolts snapped off. I wasn’t too happy. I got one out by pipe wrench because it was sticking out enough to grab hold of it. The other one wasn’t that easy. I tried to weld a nut to the part that was visible, but that snapped the bolt off even more. I really wasn’t happy. So as a final resort, I decided to drill the head bolt out. I didn’t have a big enough drill press to allow enough clearance for the engine (and I didn’t want to pay for a machine shop to do it) so I used a portable drill. I used a 1/8″ bit first, then 1/4″. I saw part of the threads exposed, so I tapped the hole. It wasn’t pretty, but hey, it holds…
The head, gasket, and bore were all fine.
So it started up pretty easily. But it smoked really bad. And it still does.
This might be the last time I see it running. I’m set to preform piston ring surgery first thing this spring.
Duration : 0:1:1